7 January 2013
Hoerikwaggo Trail 1: the hike
Posted by Callan
A little over a year ago, Lily and I hiked the Hoerikwaggo Trail, an overnight trek from Cape Point to Cape Town, South Africa.

In case you’re wondering, it’s pronounced “Hore-wreckh-uh-vahkh-oh.” It’s a Khoi-san word for Table Mountain.
Here’s a map of the route we took, modified from Google Earth “terrain” view. North is at the top of the map; south is at the bottom.

You’ll notice I added in the locations of a few other places for reference: the Sea Point Migmatite, the penguins at Boulders Beach, and Lion’s Head.
Anyhow, let’s go for a hike. Here’s a view of the Cape of Good Hope from the hike up to the observation tower at Cape Point:

Cape Point itself, in all its skinniness. Also note the far side of False Bay in the distance. That’s Cape Hangkilp. (Rooi Els is over there).

Same spot, but looking north along the Cape Peninsula, in the direction we would be walking over the next five days:

Here’s the start of the trail:

A few minutes later, I turned around and shot this portrait of my wife with the Cape Point observation tower in the background:

There was a stunning variety of landscape that we crossed on the Hoerikiwaggo Trail. Seaside cliffs, for example…

(Note the rounded boulders in the cove there?)
…And also scrubby plateau-like landscapes:

…some of which dropped off suddenly into steep oceanside cliffs:

There were even sections of the trail that crossed miles-long stretches of beach:

After crossing that particular beach (Nordhoek Beach), we had a stunningly steep climb up to the summit of Chapman’s Peak. That was rough, but we really felt like we had accomplished something when we got to the top and had some lunch:

We stayed in tented camps along the trail. They were pretty comfortable, and some were Grade A, and felt very luxurious. Here’s Orange Kloof camp, where we stayed our last night:

And here is Smitswinkel Camp, the best of the bunch, where we stayed our first night:

A double portrait at Slangkop Camp, as we began Day 3 of our hike (this was Christmas Day, and I was very tired from the long, long stretch we hiked on Day 2):

A few more scenes from the trail:


I’ll be spending the rest of the week talking about the geology along the trail, but here are a few shots that didn’t fit in elsewhere…
Some tafoni weathering of the Table Mountain Sandstone….

An opferkessel atop an outcrop, hosting a puddle of water it had retained from the most recent rainfall:

A similar series of interconnected holes which had trapped sufficient sediment to serve as a home base for some of the fynbos vegetation:

The carcass of a small animal – but I have no idea what it is.

Check out his skull. Sharp teeth (carnivorous?) and a big “mohawk” of bone that sticks out back as a flange (would that count as a saggital crest?).

I could really use some help identifying this critter – I’ve searched through the various mongooses and rodents and voles and golden moles and other small mammals of South Africa, both in my field guide and doing Google Image searches on phrases like “hyrax skull” and “aardvark skull,” for every conceivable creature from the field guide, but I couldn’t figure it out.
Here’s how we left Table Mountain, on the last day: the cable car:

(It was pretty foggy that day due to the “Tablecloth,” the veil of clouds that wafts over the mountain.)
We got a pretty good view of the Tablecloth fluttering in action a few hours later from the perspective of the Harbor area, where there was a single place that served real ale. Naturally, after hiking for 5 days, I deserved a glass or two of real beer…

… or six.
Here’s my plan for the rest of “Hoerikwaggo Week” at Mountain Beltway:
Tomorrow: the Table Mountain Sandstone
Wednesday: Jointing, veins, and Liesegang banding
Thursday: a botanical interlude with some pretty photos of fynbos vegetation
Friday: the folds and other deformation!

Callan Bentley is an assistant professor of geology at Northern Virginia Community College in Annandale, Virginia. He is particularly interested in structural geology and the evolution of the Appalachian mountain belt. Callan draws cartoons and writes for EARTH magazine. He lives in the Fort Valley of Virginia.









Robin R. said on 10 January 2013
You didn’t bring me any of that sand to shoot? For shame, Callan.
Earth Mama said on 10 January 2013
Great pics–did you screenshot your map from Google Earth or Google Maps? I’ve been looking for a terrain view overlay for Google Earth, because the one I used to use disappeared.
Callan said on 10 January 2013
Google Maps – I wish GE had similar functionality…
Earth Mama said on 11 January 2013
If you go to this site: http://www.mgmaps.com/kml/ and download the kml, it’ll bring up a bunch of GE overlays. Clicking on “Cycle map” under the OpenStreetMap heading will bring up an overlay that will show contours lines at a close scale. You can combine this with the “Windows Live Terrain” overlay under the Windows Live Maps heading to get a close facsimile to the Google Maps terrain view, although it doesn’t give as good detail as GM does (you’ll need to play with the transparency to get it to look right).
There are also a lot of overlays to play with at http://ge-map-overlays.appspot.com/ .
Sally Petersen said on 14 January 2013
Hi Well done on a fantastic photo blog of your Hoerikwaggo trail. We are a hiking tour operator in Cape Town and came across your blog. Do you mind if we post this onto our facebook page http://www.facebook.com/awoltours and if we send the map to other hikers to show them the trail. Look forward to hearing from you. PS Our office is actually just round the corner from Mitchells where you had celebratory beer. Hope to hear from you Sally
Callan said on 14 January 2013
Go for it!
Bob Denton said on 15 January 2013
The skeleton (with skull) you found compares favorably with the Asian House Shrew (Suncus murinus). They aren’t native to South Africa, but have been introduced in Africa. They are one of the largest shrews, and can be up to 15 cm in length. Asian shrews have powerful jaws for their size, and that “mohawk” is indeed the sagittal crest where the muscles that close the jaws have their origin.
Callan said on 15 January 2013
Perfect – I think that’s it. Thank you.